Old Photo Restorer Help & FAQ

Bring damaged family photographs back on your iPhone, iPad or Mac - scratches, tears, faded faces and missing colour - with everything processed on the device and the original never touched.

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Frequently asked questions

What does Old Photo Restorer actually repair?

Five kinds of damage, each handled by its own model: scratches and cracks, stains and tears and worn corners, faded or blurry faces, missing colour in black and white photographs, and low resolution. Auto Restore runs the ones that apply; you can also apply them individually.

Does my photo get uploaded anywhere?

No. Everything runs on your iPhone, iPad or Mac. There is no account, no sign-in and no upload, and the app works with no network connection at all. Nothing about what you restored is sent anywhere.

Will it change my original photo?

Never. Every restoration is saved as a new file and the original is left exactly as it was. This is deliberate - restoration involves judgement, and you should always be able to go back to what the photograph actually looked like.

How should I scan a print for the best result?

A flatbed scanner at 600 dpi gives the best input by a wide margin. If you are photographing instead, use diffuse light from the side rather than a flash, keep the print flat, and fill the frame with the photograph. The models amplify whatever is in the source, so a clean scan matters more than any setting in the app.

Can it restore a photo where a face is missing or torn away?

It can rebuild small missing areas from the surrounding texture - a crease through a cheek, a worn corner, a chunk of background. Where a face is largely gone, there is nothing to recover from, and the app will not invent a new one. That limitation is intentional.

How many faces can it restore in one photo?

Up to 16. Each face is detected and restored individually rather than the whole image being sharpened, which is why a group photograph comes out with everyone in focus instead of a uniformly sharpened blur.

Will the restored face still look like the person?

That is the point of restoring faces separately. The model recovers the features present in the photograph rather than generating a plausible face. If a face is too degraded for that, the result stays soft - which is the honest outcome, and better than a confident stranger.

How accurate is the colourisation?

It understands skin, sky, fabric and foliage, so results are plausible rather than tinted. It cannot know that a dress was green - no colouriser can, because the information is not in a black and white photograph. Treat colour as an interpretation and keep the monochrome original.

Can I colourise a faded colour photo rather than black and white?

Yes. Colour photographs from the 1960s to 1980s commonly shift towards red or yellow as the dyes age, and the colour pass corrects that rather than inventing colour from nothing.

Should I upscale before or after restoring?

After. Upscaling first enlarges the scratches into features, and the repair models then work around damage that has been made structural. Restore, check the result, then enlarge if you need the resolution for printing.

The restoration looks too smooth. What do I do?

Reduce the strength and run it again. Over-restoration shows as waxy skin and lost grain, and it is the most common complaint about any restoration tool. Comparing against the original at full size is the way to catch it - a result that looks impressive on its own often looks wrong beside the photograph.

Can I restore several photos at once?

Yes, batch processing handles a folder of scans. It is worth checking the first few individually to settle the strength before running the rest, because a setting that suits one photograph usually suits the whole scanning session.

What formats can I export?

JPEG, PNG and HEIC. For an archive, keep the original scan and the restoration side by side - the restoration is a copy, not a replacement, and in twenty years you may want to redo it with better models.

What do I need to run it?

iOS 17 or iPadOS 17 on iPhone and iPad, macOS 14 or later on Mac, and visionOS 1.0 or later on Apple Vision Pro. It runs natively on Apple Silicon, and one purchase covers every platform.

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How-to guides

How to restore a damaged family photograph

From a print in a shoebox to a finished restoration, in about five minutes.

  1. Scan the print at 600 dpi, or photograph it flat under diffuse light with no flash.
  2. Open it in the app and press Auto Restore to see what the defaults produce.
  3. Compare against the original at full size before deciding anything.
  4. If it looks over-smoothed, lower the strength and run it again.
  5. Add colour as a separate step, and keep the monochrome version too.
  6. Export as a new file and store it alongside the original scan.

Do the comparison before the colour step. Judging restoration and colourisation at the same time makes it hard to tell which one went too far.

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How to work through a box of prints efficiently

The scanning is the slow part, so the aim is to scan once and decide later.

  1. Scan everything first at the same settings, without restoring anything.
  2. Restore three or four photographs individually to find a strength that suits the batch.
  3. Run the rest as a batch with that setting.
  4. Go through the results and redo the handful that need different treatment.
  5. Keep originals and restorations in separate folders, named the same way.

Photographs from the same era and the same camera usually respond to the same settings, so grouping the scans by decade before you start saves a pass.

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Related guides

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