Cover licence plates, VIN numbers, house numbers and street signs before a photo goes online - on iPhone, iPad or Mac, with every cover reviewed by you and nothing leaving the device.
Switch between Strict, Balanced and Thorough and rescan without reopening the photo. Strict takes only what it is certain about, Balanced is the default and catches most plates without touching unrelated text, Thorough digs for small and half-blurred plates and will sometimes cover a sign you did not care about.
What are the numbers next to each detection?
How confident the app is in what it read. A low number on a plate usually means the angle is steep or the image is soft - worth checking that one by eye before you accept it. The list exists so nothing is covered without you seeing it first.
The scan missed a plate. What now?
Brush over it by hand. The brush and the eraser are both free, so you can paint what was missed and remove any cover that went too far. Pro adds a box tool when you want a straight rectangle rather than a brush stroke.
Which cover style should I pick?
For a listing photo, blur or pixels at moderate strength keep the picture looking normal. For anything going on a public forum, use the solid bar or the stamped REDACTED label - they replace the area rather than smudging it, so there is nothing left to reconstruct.
How do I run a whole folder through the same settings?
Batch, in Pro. Pick a preset, point it at the folder, and every photo comes out with the same treatment - which is how a car listing with twelve angles actually arrives.
Can I redact on Mac without opening the app?
Yes. Right-click the file in Finder and choose Redact with Plate Blur AI, or Hide Plates and VIN. There are also two Shortcuts actions, one for a single image and one for a folder, so it can sit inside a larger automation.
How do I stop the photo carrying its location?
Turn on EXIF and GPS stripping at export, in Pro. This is the step people skip: the plate is covered, the house number is covered, and the file still says exactly where it was taken.
It covered a sign I wanted to keep. Why?
Thorough mode looks for readable text aggressively, which is the point of it. Either drop that entry from the list before applying, erase it afterwards, or rescan on Balanced.
Does it blur faces too?
Never automatically. There is a manual face cover in Pro for someone who walked into the background, and it only runs when you ask. If faces are the main job, Face Blur AI is built for that instead.
What do I need to run it?
iPhone on iOS 17, iPad on iPadOS 17, or a Mac on macOS 14, and later versions of each. No account, and no network connection is required at any point.
Get Plate Blur AI: Cars & Homes
Find and cover plates, VIN numbers and addresses in photos and video - on device, nothing uploaded.
The aim is a listing that shows the car clearly and does not publish the registration alongside it.
Shoot everything first - the plate being visible while shooting is not a problem.
Open one photo and pick the Selling a car preset, which covers plates and VIN.
Check the detection list: the rear plate at an angle is the one that gets missed.
Run the rest as a batch with the same preset.
Go through the results once at full size before uploading, not at thumbnail size.
Cover the VIN as well as the plate. It is on the windscreen sticker in a lot of listing photos, and it identifies the car more precisely than the registration does.
How to post a dashcam clip without publishing everyone's plates
Video is the case where doing it by hand is genuinely not possible.
Import the clip and pick the Dashcam frame preset, which is tuned for small moving plates.
Let it run across the whole clip; length and audio track are preserved.
Scrub through and check the moments where a car enters or leaves frame, which is where tracking is weakest.
Brush over anything that slipped through on a specific frame.
Export, and strip EXIF and GPS if the file will be shared publicly.
If the footage is going to an insurer or the police as well as online, keep the untouched original. Redact the copy you publish, not the copy that has to be evidence.
Worth doing once, on the settings you plan to reuse, rather than on every photo.
Export the covered photo, then reopen the exported file rather than looking at the editor preview.
Zoom to 100% on the covered area and look for the shape of the characters showing through.
If you can still make out the outline, raise the strength or switch to a solid bar.
Check the file size and metadata: confirm EXIF and GPS are gone if you asked for that.
Keep that combination as a preset so the check does not need repeating.
Light blur and fine pixelation are partly reversible - a mild blur is a mathematical operation that can be undone. A solid bar or a stamped label is not, because the original pixels are gone.
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